TravelGuides

(TGA) - This is my report on our 3rd and 4th days of our 18 day/5000 mile trip from WI to the South West. We left Wisconsin on 10/3, drove thru South Dakota and Wyoming (see my post in Moab for more info).

The drive, sights and stops were wonderful, but we were looking forward to Rocky Mountain National Park and Estes Park. The drive through the Fort Collins and the Loveland area was crowded and not as scenic as I expected, but then we were suddenly along the Big Thompson and it all changed, now I knew why people were entranced by the area. The drive was beautiful and we stopped to take pictures of big horn sheep along the road. We were thrilled with our lodging, Aspen Winds on Fall River, larger and more beautiful than I expected. But we had to quickly unpack to get to Ed's Cantina to watch Favre dismantle the Packers (for the first time). At least we met some interesting people and some good advice for our next day at the park.

Day 4) Our lodging was just a few minutes from the Fall River Park Entrance, while during the drive we kept looking at the snow-capped mountains ahead of us. When we got to the visitors center, we got the lay of the land from the ranger. I told him how I could feel the effects of the altitude i.e. rapid heart beat, shortness of breath, fatigue. He cautioned us that if I felt those symptoms with little effort, I had to be extremely careful; this was nothing to fool around with. He said drink lots of water, keep snacking and just take it easy, he felt Bear Lake was out of the picture. Well, I was pretty devastated. The main purpose of our stops in the park was to hike, but I hadn't realized what impact that elevation would have on us.

We got back in the car, I took a few deep breaths and started drinking LOTS of water. We drove up to Trail Ridge Road to give me a chance to acclimate. The ranger said, just sitting would help., but I was able to hike a bit at the Beaver Ponds watching for ice and snow. We had flurried the day before and that day, but the area had been hit with several inches. But up ahead, the road was closed at Many Parks Curve.

We parked and got out to walk. It was sunny, but very windy, about 28 degrees. I had 6 layers of clothes on, including a jacket I threw in at the last minute—thank heavens! But…we had bald eagles flying over head, fall foliage below and the Rockies with snow blowing off the tops, almost at eye level. Magnificent, talk about a Rocky Mountain High. We drove back down, walked in the Sheep’s Lake area where we saw a herd of elk, then later, one lone elk in the woods. This was an open prairie area with trails into the woods.

As long as I took it easy and kept pushing water and snacks I was fine. After communing with lots of magpies (those black and white crow-type birds) we ate lunch at the Fall River Visitors Center restaurant. It was very good, terrific views and we had an interesting discussion with other visitors about the devastation by the Pine Bark Beetle.

We then drove back up to Trail Ridge for another look and on the way we came across a number of cars parked on the side of the road. (As it was late in the season, you were able to use your cars, not the shuttles). It turned out that there were nearby elk. We quietly walked into the woods, and sure enough, about 50 yards away was a male elk. Back towards the road, we could hear a rather raucous group clamber out of the cars, walking towards the woods. The rest of us looked at each other, and silently agreed to protect the elk and the peace. We didn't tell them what we had found. I guess they decided they had enough "nature" and headed back out. Fine with us. We just gazed in awe, and slowly backed away from animal (and most likely, its unseen harem.)

I felt so much better that we decided to try and hike around Bear Lake after all, and it was worth it. The only problem we had was my hubby falling on the icy path! (Hard to believe in a few days we’d be in a desert…). It was obvious these conditions were new to many visitors but we were all mesmerized by the park. The ice and snow on the trail were pretty tricky, but we all helped each other. We met people from all around the world, including a young man from Rio de Janiero who was traveling with the circus. Before I knew it, we had circled the whole lake, and were ready to see Glacier Gorge (it was glacier-like with 30 mph winds). The drive in this area of the park was quite different from Trail Ridge, narrow and curvy. We then hiked around Sprague Lake. It reminded us a lot of the parks and woods back in Wisconsin.

Then it was onto the ranger talk, “Elk Echoes”. We learned more than I thought possible about mating habits of elk. When you’re in a National Park, get to a ranger presentation, they are interesting and informative. Our guide compared the elk (who were at the end of the rutting season) to teenagers at a prom. It was extremely funny, but a good way for us to remember (comparing an elk's ability to spray himself with his own...let's just say cologne, to a young man's use of aftershave and to the need of a big rack of antlers to a shiny car.) We then went to the open field to view the elk. It was getting late in the season, but there were still quite a few around.

We ended the day at Dunraven’s restaurant in Estes Park (see my review). The next day we went back to the splendid main visitor’s center, designed by Frank Lloyd Wright influenced architects and to make some purchases. We did that at all the National Park stores, as the money goes right back to help the under-funded parks.

As much as it would have been nice to have more time in the park, it was possible to truly enjoy the park and have quite a lot of different experiences in only one full day. I feel like I have memories from 3 days there. Then we drove to Utah, but that’s another story.
-------------- Reply --------------
You wrote: "As it was late in the season, you were able to use your cars, not the shuttles"

Clarification note: You can always use your own car in RMNP. Parking in the busy Summer months is sometimes a problem around the Bear Lake area. The park-n-ride shuttles allow visitors to park in an overflow parking lot. The shuttle then drives you to Bear Lake (among other places). The shuttle is also handy for hikers in the area to ride back to their cars. We've used the shuttle numerous times when hiking in the area. We've never had to use it to visit Bear Lake. There seems to have always been a parking spot available in the main lot.

Thanks for the trip report.
-------------- Reply --------------
Thank you for clearing that up. As we prepared for the trip so many of the parks described the shuttle system that we assumed that would be the only way to get around. So we prepared to have to use the backpacks to carry what we wanted for the day, leaving the car behind.

We were surprised to find that when we went in October, the only park that had something like that was Zion.(We were also at Mount Rushmore, Badlands, Wind Cave, Bryce, Canyonlands, Arches, Grand Canyon South Rim and Petrified National Forest) At Zion, you were able to drive quite a ways in, on UT Hwy 9, but once you got to (I believe) the visitors center, then you used the parks shuttles to get around.
-------------- Reply --------------
Thanks for sharing - glad you enjoyed your time in RMNP - it is an incredible place!
-------------- Reply --------------
Thanks for writing and enjoying a very special place!
-------------- Reply --------------
Very nice trip report! I'm going to have to read your other reports on the other areas you visited also! It sounds like a great trip and I'm glad you enjoyed Rocky Mountain National Park. It is truly an amazing place.
-------------- Reply --------------
You know, when I am writing these I never know what people will think. But I figure it's my way of paying it back and paying it forward. Now I want to go back and read the posts of others I was too busy to read while I was planning.

I've still got my actual Moab parks to write, then Zion, Bryce, Grand Canyon and the way back. I'm sure you're looking forward to this as much as you did the final Harry Potter, right?
-------------- Reply --------------
Great trip report; this is very helpful information as I am starting to plan for a trip next summer to RMNP.

BTW, we were at Eddie McStiff's in Moab when Farve "dismantled" the Packers. Most of the folks in the place were wearing purple!
-------------- Reply --------------