TravelGuides

(TGA) - Travel - Driving from Liechtenstein to was a rather surreal experience. A good part of the trip you are in tunnels, the longest one almost 15 km/10 miles long. One does get a feeling like he is an extra in Groundhog Day. The Austrians compensate for this dreary driving atmosphere by having the worlds most beautiful rest stops. Every time we stopped, we had a cup of coffee looking at some of the planets most spectacular scenery. The Alps just cannot be beat.We arrived in under beautiful clear blue skies. Nothing could make the city more beautiful. From the main square you can see the Alps in almost all directions. Our hotel, the "White Cross" was an old hotel right in the heart of the Old Center. The staff were lovely, but the building was - well - lopsided
. Standing at the reception one would you were totally kerschnackled. How could a building possibly be that off-kilter and still be standing? It was like staying in the Tower of Pisa. But the exquisite dark woods, the antique furniture in the lobby, and the charming "Stube" where we had breakfast were the Austrian atmosphere we were looking for. The hotel had good recs. Both Mozart and Bruckner had stayed there -- though probably in separate rooms. Bruckner was coming to town to play with the local organs, as it were. is really a charming town - though its history is rather complex. The Golden Roof is simply a terrace with a copper roof (ok - I also have been known to exaggerate, so I will let this go). It was from this terrace that Hitler greeted the Austrians after the Anschluss in March 1938. We walked from the main square to the Hofkirche to see the tomb of Maximilian II. They had a very Euro-kitsch "Story of Maximilian II" exhibit which we unfortunately said we would watch. We were trapped in these rooms for almost a half hour, watching as lights were projected onto different objects, and people were faking really bad Austrian accents in English. What - that wasnt faking? Jesus appears to be crucified everywhere in Austria, but we were particularly struck by the number of crucifixions in . It was almost Olympic in nature.We walked the royal gardens and then decided that we were going to find "Austrias most lovely Rococo church." Little did Lubos know when we began our walk that this was "off the map." He started groaning about half-way through our walk, but when we found the church, we were gobsmacked
. It looked as though a pastry chef had gone mad with decorating the church. The stucco was so impressive, that the typical rococo imperial emblems were almost completing obscured by the business of the texture of the building. That night, after much deliberation, we ate at one of the most recommended restaurants.The Weisses Rossl. We were taken by the intimate atmosphere - and the non-smoking section! We had an exquisite meal of lamb with watercress sauce and grilled asparagus on the side. Food was not going to be a problem on this trip.But the hotel was. As lovely as the hotel was, we were on the street - and there was an evil hotdog man who set up his stand below our window every night. All of the late night revelers must think that a good Wurst is enough to sober you up - but sure as hell doesnt shut them up. We endured all types of conversations, exclamations, and it sounded like ejactulations - throughout the night. Note to self - ask for a quiet room next time.Our second day was full of false starts. We thought that this would be our high exercise day, but we were wrong. We drove out to which is on the Lake Achen (Achensee), a beautiful Alpine lake. As we approached the lake, it poured rain and the temperature was around freezing. Travel troopers that we are, we tried to walk the path around the lake, but returned to the car and plastered our hands against the heater vents. Failure 1. The guidebook said that the small town of Hall, just outside of , is a lovely day trip
. The Rough Guide says that the town is "incredibly untouristed." The city was a run-down ghost-town needing a good paint-job. There truly were no tourists - and no Austrians either. But they did have good poppy-seed pastries and coffee.Surrendering, we returned to Innsbruck. After parking the car, we walked up to the street to our hotel. As we reached for the door-handle, the sun poked its head through the clouds. Of course. So, we decided to give Innsbruck another go. We first visited St Jakubs church. In spite of it rather dowdy, imposing exterior, the church was fantastic inside. The interior was baroque gone bonkers - replete with an organ that Elton John would be proud of - as it were. We then went on the search for the Innsbruck synagogue. This would prove to be another disappointment. The original synagogue was destroyed in the war - and was finally torn down in the 1960s. What has replaced it is a concrete building of little significance, except for the fact that it even exists.So, we headed off to the "Speckeria." for a pile of ham, sausage, and bacon and beer before heading back to the hotel. I know - so damn irreverent....